A hike over Morse Mountain to Seawall Beach in Phippsburg is one of the most unique treks in Midcoast Maine. If the outing is extended with a walk on the beach, the journey approximates 5 miles and travels through multiple ecosystems.
The area has an interesting history. Daniel Morse settled there in the late 1700s. The Morse family farmed and logged Morse Mountain for about a century. Subsequently, attempts were made to mine and develop the property but they failed. In 1976, the St. John family obtained the land with the intent of conserving it. More recently, approximately 600 acres was acquired by Bates-Morse Mountain Conservation Area. Seawall Beach and the sand dunes are owned by Small Point Association.
Bates College manages the conservation area and maintains a public parking lot on Morse Mountain Road a short distance from Route 216. Public access is limited and visitors should familiarize themselves with the rules. That information is available online and at a kiosk in the parking area. Only foot traffic is permitted and pets are prohibited.
Longtime friends, Diane and John Stokinger, joined my wife, Nancy, and me for a hike to the beach on a glorious, sunny, warm, late-October day. While Nancy and I are veterans of several Morse Mountain adventures, it was a new and thoroughly enjoyable experience for our companions.
We began our excursion walking down the gated Morse Mountain Road in a mixed conifer and hardwood forest. Shortly after passing the gate, we descended to a causeway that crosses scenic Sprague River Salt Marsh, an exceptional location for bird watching. Hikers should check the predicted tides in advance of planning their Morse Mountain escapade as high tides in the marsh sometimes flood the causeway. We confirmed high tide had occurred a few hours prior to beginning the hike.
Nancy and our late friend, Audrey Ingersoll, suffered through an unpleasant learning experience with a high tide at the causeway a couple of decades ago. When they returned from the beach shortly before dark, the road was impassable due to flooding. Nancy was unaware of the potential problem and Audrey forgot to check the tides. They were forced to complete a strenuous bushwhack around the marsh in order to escape before dark.
The road steepens after leaving the marsh, and we began our ascent of Morse Mountain. This is not a difficult climb as the mountaintop is only 180 feet above sea level. Where the road temporarily levels off, we passed some distinctive granite rock formations. Fragile lichens and mosses inhabit the rocks and climbing is prohibited.
Following some additional elevation gain, we arrived at a fork in the road. A left turn leads to the beach while going right continues to the summit. We proceeded uphill past private property on the left to the top. A narrow path connects with a precipitous overlook that affords an expansive view of Sprague River Salt Marsh. We lingered along the edge of the escarpment to embrace the spectacular panoramic vista.
Returning to the junction, we began a gradual descent to the beach. This sector of the trail travels through a pitch pine forest. Although past peak, the foliage was still colorful.
The trail briefly reconnects with the marsh prior to entering forested dunes. A brochure available at the parking area kiosk indicates the dune woodland is the largest area of stable parabolic dunes in Maine.
Shortly after, we arrived at Seawall Beach. A cluster of signs provide a wealth of information about the beach and its inhabitants. No camping is allowed.
We turned left and trudged on hard-packed sand towards Morse River Salt Marsh. The river separates Seawall Beach from Morse Point and Popham Beach. This is a magical location. A collection of tiny rockbound islands are just offshore. We could see lofty Sequin Island in the distance, the lighthouse visible atop the high island. Massive boulders line the shoreline. We were enveloped in rugged beauty.
Retracing our steps to the trailhead, prominent Cape Small could be seen beyond the western end of the beach. Sprague River Salt Marsh begins meandering inland immediately east of the headland.
We met several trekkers during our return to the parking area. Not surprising as this is an exceptional day hike.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates numerous hiking exploits around the state.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals — New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
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