From Attean Overlook on U.S. Route 201, just south of Jackman, countless miles of mountainous wilds reaching to the Canadian frontier fill the panorama. Center stage is beautiful blue, island-dotted Attean Lake, overlooked by the multi-summited green ridgeline of Sally Mountain. These two natural features were the prime objectives – with a special twist – of a recent foray into the upper Kennebec River watershed in far northern Somerset County.
Located on 24-acre Birch Island, Attean Lake Lodge is about 1-1/2 miles from Attean Landing on the Moose River. On my only hike up Sally Mountain several years ago, I’d gazed longingly down on the cabins in such an idyllic setting and knew I had to stay there on a future visit. On a glorious late summer afternoon, as the pontoon boat motored across the scenic waters, my wife and I – duffels and day packs in tow – sported wide smiles.
Attean Lake Sporting Camps opened in 1893 as a fishing and hunting resort, a place for “sportsmen and families, unique log cabins, comfortably furnished and charmingly located with 18 miles of the best hunting and fishing grounds in Maine,” according to an advertisement in the New York Herald. Today, Attean Lake Lodge is an all-inclusive island retreat operated by Barrett and Josie Holden, the fourth generation of Holdens to do so.
“It’s a casual, friendly, comfortable place to be,” said Harlan Buzby, who has made annual visits to Attean Lake Lodge since 1956. “It’s so unique. You’re on an island surrounded by thousands of acres of conservation land. This is the only commercial place; there’s no other development. At night, the stillness is deafening, the night sky is so dark, and the stargazing is phenomenal.”
Attean Lake Lodge waterfront cabins feature all the simple amenities – plus hot showers – but no electricity or Wi-Fi. Carey Kish photo
Our lakefront cabin – one of 14 – featured all the simple amenities plus hot showers but no electricity or Wi-Fi. The latter we could get at the lodge, but completely unplugging for several days was greatly appealing. The other big attraction, to be sure, was Sally Mountain, its 2,227-foot craggy east peak in full view from the cabin’s front porch.
First things first, however. We explored the loop trail around the island, then grabbed a canoe and headed out for a sweet paddle among the myriad islands and cool rock formations, entertained by herons, loons, eagles and ospreys. It was barbecue night, and after post-paddle happy hour, we ate heartily of burgers and salads, enjoyed a pinkish sunset, kindled a cheery blaze in the wood stove, and fell fast asleep to a cool breeze wafting through the windows.
It’s a half-mile paddle from Attean Lake Lodge to the public campsite at Sally Beach, where hikers can pick up the trail to Sally Mountain. Carey Kish photo
In the morning, with a belly full of breakfast and a picnic lunch in hand, we paddled across to Sally Beach and started up the Sally Mountain Trail (3.4 miles round trip), one of four trails around the lake maintained by the Holdens. In addition to Birch Island below, Sally’s south-facing ledges present a grand picture that stretches from Katahdin and Kineo all the way to Coburn and Number Five mountains, while north from the old summit fire tower site, the vista ranges from Boundary Bald far into Quebec.
In 1984, when the Coburn family wanted to sell its 18,000 acres of Attean Township land, but sought protection for forest products and recreational use, the Forest Society of Maine was formed to hold the conservation easement. This included 15 miles of Attean Pond and Moose River frontage, 31 islands, Sally and Attean mountains, and half of Number Five Bog. Later additions increased the tally to 20,000 acres. With The Nature Conservancy’s Leuthold Preserve, and state land around Attean Pond, Number Five Bog, the Moose River and Holeb Pond, there are 50,000 contiguous conservation acres, much of it in view from Sally Mountain. Amazing.
Montclair Cabin, one of 14 lakefront cabins at Attean Lake Lodge, offers a wonderful view across Attean Pond to Sally Mountain. Carey Kish photo
Attean Lake Lodge provides three hearty meals per day, most recreational equipment, access to 20 miles of trails, and unlimited peace and quiet. Rates run from $300 a night for a one-bedroom cabin to $550 a night for a three-bedroom cabin, according to the lodge’s website (atteanlakelodge.com), with additional fees for guests. Reservations are open for next season; dates fill up, so plan accordingly.
You don’t have to stay at the lodge to hike Sally Mountain, of course. The Sally Mountain trailhead is also accessible by a 2-mile hike from a pullout on Attean Road, or you can paddle about a mile from Attean Landing to the public campsite at Sally Beach.
Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island is the author of “Beer Hiking New England,” “AMC’s Best Day Hikes Along the Maine Coast,” and the “AMC Maine Mountain Guide” (the new 12th edition is now available). Follow more of Carey’s adventures on Facebook and on Instagram @careykish
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