Often, the best way to develop a new recipe is to start with the name. Keeping it simple is a sure way to success: Watermelon, Blueberry and Feta Salad; macaroni and cheese; Any Fruit Tart. But creative work is rarely linear. My idea for this recipe started as a vague notion: If you put a slab of grilled halloumi in a bun, is that a grilled cheese sandwich or a Halloumi Burger?

My colleagues and I debated the merits and confusions inherent in each. Some will say that it’s a different sort of grilled cheese sandwich, specifically a halloumi sandwich. I countered that this didn’t sound substantial enough. Some pointed out that calling this thing a burger implied the addition of a meat patty – but not all burgers contain meat.

The news that a Burger King in Thailand recently started selling what it called a “real cheeseburger” – 20 slices of American cheese, and nothing else, in a bun – made me chuckle. I wasn’t the only one trying to needle logic or wiggle around silly but socially accepted definitions.

In his introduction to “Dana Schutz,” a now out-of-print monograph of the artist from 2010, Jonathan Safran Foer considers the importance of names. “Names help us organize the world – that tree is an elm; tomorrow is Wednesday; it disappeared down the river. All names are approximations (not every elm and Wednesday are perfectly alike, and of course you can’t step into the same river twice), but we can live with the imprecision,” he wrote. After considering the name of his child and his child’s namesake, Safran Foer goes on: “Unlike people, paintings and books are often formed when titled, so insofar as such titles matter at all, they must not only sound good, but be fitting. …  The problem with names is that they are both bad approximations and self-fulfilling prophecies.”

In the end, I settled on Halloumi Burgers for the name of this recipe for grilled salty, squeaky cheese with sweet onions and peppers and a harissa-honey sauce. I wanted the name to suggest a rich and satisfying meal, in the way that the word “cheeseburger” always does. I wanted to challenge the notion that a burger had to contain meat or even a patty. Mostly, I wanted to have a little fun. Because, this recipe? No matter what you might name it, it’s a whole lot of fun.

Halloumi Burgers

A classic burger might be made from ground meat, but stretch the definition for this halloumi burger, which features a slab of salty, squeaky cheese in place of the usual patty. Bell peppers and red onions give it flavor, and a honey-harissa sauce provides a hit of sweet heat. Made in a skillet on the stove, it takes minutes to put together. To get a smoky flavor, cook the cheese, peppers and onions on a grill (see Note). Either way, it’s a satisfying vegetarian main fit for summer.

2 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Where to buy: Halloumi can be found in the cheese section of well-stocked supermarkets, at cheese stores or Middle Eastern markets.

Storage note: This dish is best the day it is made.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon harissa

2 round hamburger buns or sandwich rolls, split and toasted, if desired

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more as needed

One (8-ounce) package halloumi cheese, drained, patted dry and cut into 2 square slabs

1/2 small red onion (2 ounces total), sliced

2 bell peppers (any color), seeded and sliced

DIRECTIONS

In a small bowl, stir together the honey and harissa until combined. Using a spoon or butter knife, spread the sauce on both sides of the rolls.

In a large skillet over high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers. Add the slabs of halloumi and sear until browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and sear on the other side, about 2 minutes. Transfer a piece of cheese to the sauced bottom of each roll.

Add the onion and peppers to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and deeply browned in spots, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat. (To cook the cheese, onions and peppers on a grill, see Notes.) Divide the peppers and onions between the sandwiches, add the top roll to each sandwich and serve, with any extra peppers on the side.

Note: You can also grill the halloumi, peppers and onions.

If using a gas grill, set it to 450 degrees. For a charcoal grill, use a grill thermometer or hold your hand, palm down, about 4 inches from the grate for about 4 seconds. Be sure that nothing flammable is near the heat.

To cook the onions and peppers, toss them in the oil and cook them in a grill basket or on a double layer of foil. Use tongs to pinch a folded paper towel dipped in vegetable oil and grease a small section of the hot grill grates. Place the slabs of cheese on the grates and grill uncovered, until grill marks form, about 5 minutes; flip and repeat.

Nutritional information per serving (1 sandwich) | Calories: 740, Carbohydrates: 50 g, Cholesterol: 100 mg, Fat: 45 g, Fiber: 4 g; Protein: 33 g; Saturated fat: 25 g; Sodium: 1,652 mg, Sugar: 26 g

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