There is something magical about that first paddle of the year, as skis get stashed in the gear closet and the paddles come out for another season of exploring Maine waters. This April, we are dipping those paddles into the azure blue of Damariscotta Lake’s North Basin and the winding channel of Davis Stream.
Davis Stream, at the northeastern end of the lake, provides a mile and a half of smooth water paddling with very few signs of civilization along the way. Eventually, you will encounter a perceptible current ending in a babbling chorus of whitewater. As we readied to turn around in the whitewater, we heard the squeak of a pair of wood ducks as they wheeled up into the air and headed further upstream. A mere 20 yards of fast-moving whitewater provided an adrenaline thrill for us flatwater explorers.
Even on a breezy day, the stream is protected enough by steep forested slopes to provide artistic reflections from shoreside trees, upturned roots, and logs. We passed by a large wasp nest suspended from a maple branch surrounded by a maze of emerging red maple flowers. Mallards dotted the waterway up and back. A hawk appeared out of the trees and darted up over a row of hemlocks lining the banking. A flash of yellow caught our attention. Delicate coltsfoot flowers were unfurling on a muddy banking scoured smooth by winter ice and spring floods.
It had been a chilly morning start and we were surprised that we had not seen any turtles basking in the sun on our journey upstream. Before passing back under the Route 32 bridge and reentering the lake, we decided to check out a circular cove on our right. My wife spied a line of shiny black objects at water’s edge. We hastily got our binoculars out. On a log, a stump, and the muddy banking, we counted 10 painted turtles that had pulled themselves up out of the cold water to reenergize in the morning sun. We imagined them all contentedly thinking, “Now that is what I’m talking about” – glorious sun-induced warmth.
Painted turtles come out of the chilly water to bask in the sun along the shore of Davis Stream. Christine Wolfe photo
Fifty yards to our left, we spied even more turtles. Sixteen sat in a row on top of a large downed tree that had fallen into the water. As we marveled at the sight, a kingfisher dashed low across the cove, chattering loudly, vying for our attention. We scanned the reeds and cattail patches and saw a female Canada goose sitting on her nest, head and neck positioned as low as possible so we would not see her. We gave her plenty of room, crossing over to the opposite shore.
The Jefferson Market & General Store sits on the stream bank adjacent to the Route 32 bridge. Be sure to pull up onto their dock and check out the store. Its spacious interior, with pine board flooring splashed with sun, is a welcoming place to have lunch or pick up a homemade muffin. Check out the menu. The names of the offerings generate many questions. How did their most popular sandwich, “Don’t Tell Allison” get its name?
It would have been nice to have extended our two-hour paddle by exploring more of the lake’s North Basin, but a chilly noontime breeze had picked up and we made a beeline back to our launch site at Damariscotta Lake State Park. We thought about the first swim of the year. The high sun said yes, the stiff breeze said no. No prevailed.
Consult the DeLorme Maine Atlas and Gazetteer (map No. 13) for help in getting to the state park on Route 32 in Jefferson. The park is closed for drive-in visitors until Memorial Day. Park outside the gate on the south side of the access road. Carry your canoe the 200 yards to the sandy beach looking out over the blue expanse of Damariscotta Lake. This is a nice spot to lounge around after you get back from Davis Stream, watching the midday sun arc to the west. A pair of common mergansers paddled along the beach shallows; the male’s brilliant white body contrasting sharply with the female’s gray-brown body.
The drive home was the perfect complement to an outstanding morning on the water. We stopped at the crest of Bunker Hill on Route 213 for far reaching views over the lake to the distant Camden Hills.
Michael Perry is the former director of the L.L. Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools, and founder of Dreams Unlimited, specializing in inspiring outdoor slide programs for civic groups, businesses, and schools. Contact: michaelj_perry@comcast.net
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