For several years, I’ve led a Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society sea kayak trip to visit the puffins on Eastern Egg Rock in outer Muscongus Bay beginning from Round Pond. The roundtrip voyage is an exacting 16-mile day-trip. This year, I decided to explore an alternative itinerary, preferably camping overnight.
Following my research of options and a preliminary outing in eastern Muscongus Bay, I decided to launch from Bradford Point in Friendship. The actual distance to Eastern Egg and back is about 17 miles. However, paddling for multiple days provided for a more relaxed excursion. My plan was to kayak 4 miles to Black Island on the first day and explore hiking opportunities on nearby islands. On day two, we would complete the 9-mile roundtrip to Eastern Egg and decide whether or not to spend a second night on Black Island.
In late June, I received confirmation that the puffins had arrived on Eastern Egg Rock from a club member who is working on the island for the Audubon Society. After obtaining a quality, three-day weather forecast, I announced a club trip and eight enthusiastic Chowderheads signed on.
Six of us met at Bradford Point Landing on a beautiful summer day with clear skies, moderate temperatures and light winds. A major concern was a change in the weather forecast for the subsequent days. The forecast for days two and three had deteriorated overnight. Fog, strong onshore winds and bigger seas were predicted.
The trip to Black Island was a delight. Six solo kayakers paddled out of Friendship Harbor and along the western shore of Friendship Long Island. Angling southwest at the end, we passed Cranberry Island on our left while journeying to the campsite on the north end of Black. There, we met two additional Chowderheads who had spent the previous night on Thief Island in central Muscongus Bay.
While unloading boats, wary paddlers contemplated the worsening forecast. Brent Elwell obtained an updated forecast on his weather radio confirming that the exceptional conditions we were experiencing would continue for the remainder of the day. We decided to change our plans and attempt the voyage to Eastern Egg that afternoon.
Superb paddling was encountered traveling south through a narrow channel between Harbor and Hall Islands. Entering open water, the hazy profile of Eastern Egg Rock was observed about 3 miles south with only tiny Franklin Island and its distinctive lighthouse between.
Light onshore winds and gentle seas continued during our traverse to the rock where we were greeted by scores of colorful puffins floating in the waves or fluttering to and from the island. The relatively calm conditions allowed us to enjoy an extended visit with the remarkable little sea birds.
After completing a circumnavigation of the diminutive atoll in rolling swells, we returned to Black Island benefiting from a tailwind and an ingoing tide. A sunny end of the day with a cool sea breeze made for a very pleasant evening camping on the spacious site owned by Maine Coastal Heritage Trust.
The following morning, we awoke to patchy fog and a strong onshore wind. Our decision to visit the puffins the previous day was validated. Three in the group chose to return to Friendship, while the remaining Chowderheads decided to wait out the fog and complete some additional island exploration.
When the fog lifted, the tenacious kayakers broke camp and paddled to a beach on the northeast end of Harbor Island. From there, the inquisitive explorers followed a hiking trail across the island to spectacular cliffs on the west side where they were entertained by a panoramic view of Muscongus Bay. Afterwards, the hiking contingent returned to the mainland assisted by a breezy tailwind and a cooperative ingoing tide.
Despite some unanticipated obstacles, another successful PPCS trip to visit with the puffins was completed. A gratifying postscript, trip participants Jean Miller and Ken Gordon were able to capture a collection of exceptional close up photos of the wonderful puffins — no easy accomplishment while paddling a solo sea kayak.
Read a chronicle of another exciting trip to Eastern Egg Rock from Round Pond and seven additional sea kayak adventures along the Maine coast in my book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine.”
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco.html or in bookstores and through online distributors. Upcoming book signings are scheduled at Sherman’s Maine Coast Book Shops in Topsham on Aug. 20 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and in Freeport on Aug. 27 from 1-3 p.m.. Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com, or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
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