”Old Orchard Beach is like church. Many attend, but few understand.”

It’s a truth locals have always known. Someone even went so far as to write it on a slice of scrap paper, put it under frame (along with other thought-provoking ”Thoughts of the Day”) and hang it up in the restroom at Beach Bagels Cafe in Old Orchard Beach.

The bagel-centric cafe is inspiring in other ways too.

The name alone conjures flip-flop visions and beach sand dreams. During a recent visit, the sturdy heater warmed the slender space to summer-like temperatures. A plaque on the wall read: ”2008 Sand Castle Award.”

It was almost possible to imagine it was July. That is, if it wasn’t for the massive mound of snow piled just outside the Beach Bagels window. The snow pile – a remnant from Winter Carnival, which ended the day before – was a reminder that winter still has a cold hold on our reality.

But that didn’t seem to put a damper on the spirits of the Beach Bagels employees. They could be heard occasionally bursting into song – laughing, even. While at work. In the dead of winter. Sure, everyone’s lively in Old Orchard Beach during the summer, but Beach Bagels bustles with good nature and good grub in all four seasons.

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The baked goods are the focal point. Bagels are offered in chive, veggie, strawberry, veggie light, olive, garlic, bacon and scallion, and smoked salmon ($2.59 with plain or light cream cheese; $2.79 with flavored cream cheese).

There are also jumbo muffins ($1.87), donuts (99 cents), filled croissants ($2.39), biscotti (99 cents), cookies (69 cents), coffee cake ($1.69), brownies ($1.69) and other pastry temptations.

But Beach Bagels isn’t restricted by a bagels-for-breakfast philosophy. It also serves a full breakfast menu including eggs, sausage, pancakes, French toast, waffles and omelets. Of course, if you’re the all-inclusive sort, you can always put egg, sausage and cheese on a bagel ($3.59).

The pancake special ($7.99) includes two pancakes, two bacon strips, one sausage patty, two eggs and home fries. The traditional breakfast ($5.99) includes two eggs, home fries and toast, and is served with a choice of bacon, sausage or ham. A three-egg omelet with cheese and two additional toppings ($6.99) also comes with home fries and toast.

For lunch and dinner, Beach Bagels offers a spread of sandwiches, such as a crabmeat roll ($7.99) and lobster roll ($10.99). There are also sandwich classics including the turkey club ($7.39 whole; $5.99 half), tuna ($7.39 whole; $5.99 half), BLT ($6.99 whole; $5.99 half) and vegetarian wrap ($5.99 whole; $3.99 half).

After a long day shoveling – or lounging beachside, depending on the season – the half-pound Beach Burger ($7.99) should help reinvigorate. Go the black pepper and blue cheese way with the Black and Blue ($8.49), or Swiss and mushroom ($8.49) or bacon and cheddar ($8.49).

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But beef aside, Beach Bagels Cafe is a cafe. Meaning, they’re serving up espresso ($1.59 regular), cappuccino ($2.79 regular), caramel macchiato ($2.99 regular), Oregon Chai latte ($2.79 regular), iced cappuccino ($2.99 medium) and other caffeinated beverages. The coffee chillers ($3.99) come in Oreo, caramel delight, chocolate cherry freeze, white Russian and other flavors. Coffee drinkers looking for simplicity can grab a cup of Green Mountain.

When the weather finally warms – and umbrella-covered tables appear outside at Beach Bagels Cafe – folks can swing in for a scoop of Gifford’s Ice Cream or a fruity smoothie.

And remember, like the wisdom of the Beach Bagels bathroom says, ”Life’s too short to spend lying on cold kitchen floors.”

The Features staff of The Portland Press Herald anonymously samples meals for about $7.

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