When it comes to holiday cookies, there are three types of bakers.

The first type sticks to an old family recipe like Taylor Swift trying to hold onto the microphone at the VMA Awards.

The second type is more like Adam Lambert at the American Music Awards – always pushing the envelope with something new and more, um, challenging.

The third type is like a karaoke performer. These folks buy pre-mixed, pre-sliced cookies in the grocer’s freezer, pop them in the oven, and they’re done. They like to call themselves singers, but they’re not fooling anyone but themselves.

Personally, I fall somewhere between the first and second type. When I stumble across a recipe that gets raves from family and friends – like the citrus almond shortbread cookies I made last year – I like to hang onto it tight. But when the next holiday season rolls around, I invariably find myself yearning to try something new, like those little thumbprint cookies topped with caramel and a chocolate-covered coffee bean that I’m thinking about making this year. Or the Earl Grey tea cookies I tasted last weekend at a tweet-up brunch for local foodies.

No matter which category you fall into, consider throwing an old-fashioned cookie swap this season. This sweeter version of a potluck allows the tradition-bound bakers to share their cherished family recipes with others. The more ambitious bakers will get lots of other recipes to try. And the slice ‘n’ bake folks might just find enough inspiration to try making some cookies from scratch.

At a cookie swap, everyone brings a few dozen of their favorite cookies to share. You should leave a cookie swap with about as many cookies as you brought in, only you’ll have a much wider variety.

Never been to a cookie swap? Rabelais, a food-centric bookstore at 86 Middle St. in Portland, will be hosting one Sunday from 1 to 3 p.m. This is the store’s third cookie swap, and they are growing more popular with each event, says Samantha Hoyt Lindgren, who owns the store with her husband, Don Lindgren.

The Lindgrens typically set all the cookies on a table, and everyone takes a cookie from each plate. ”We keep going around and around until there are no cookies left,” Hoyt Lindgren said.

The special guest at Sunday’s event will be Julia Usher, author of the new book ”Cookie Swap” (Gibbs Smith, $19.99). Usher lives in St. Louis, but spent all of her summers in Maine while growing up. She has owned a home in Stonington for the past seven years, and is spending Thanksgiving there this year.

Usher has fond childhood memories of making the rounds of holiday parties, including cookie swaps, with her family.

Cookie swaps are not just for the winter holidays – Usher’s book includes clever ideas for Halloween, Valentine’s Day and even spring and summer parties – but this is the time of year most people pull out their family recipes and spend a lot of time baking.

A COOKIE-SWAP COMEBACK

Cookie swaps are experiencing something of a revival, thanks to a resurgence in community potlucks and the idea of neighbors and friends cooking together.

”The cookies are sort of an excuse for bringing people together,” Usher said. ”It’s nice to walk away with tons of cookies of different types, but it’s more important to walk away with recipes that convey a memory of the event, or a memory associated with that recipe.”

In her new book, Usher has lots of ideas for making a holiday cookie swap successful, such as using iron-on transfers to print the invitation, along with some favorite recipes, onto a dish towel.

Usher recommends asking guests to send in their recipes ahead of time so you can get creative and turn them into favors. (Who wants to spend the entire party copying down all the other guests’ recipes?) One idea is to digitally scan vintage holiday postcards and print them on cardstock, and then print the recipes on the back.

Even if you don’t swap entire recipes, it’s a good idea to offer a list of ingredients in case guests have food allergies.

Each guest should be asked to bring two or three dozen cookies. ”My rule of thumb is, you take away, either in your stomach or on your plate, what you brought,” Usher said.

Guests can bring their own containers to take their cookies home, or you can provide fun containers for them, from tricked-out cookie tins to Christmas stockings labeled with your guests’ names. My favorite idea is Usher’s suggestion of putting the cookies in vintage ornament boxes lined with tissue paper.

Events like cookie swaps tend to bring out the competitiveness in home bakers. Usher has seen her share of over-the-top cookie swaps, including one recent swap at a bed and breakfast that was attended by ”a really hard-core contingent of scrapbookers.”

”They had seen some of the packaging in my book and they thought they needed to step it up a notch, so the packaging was incredible,” she recalled. ”Some had individually wrapped cookies. Somebody had done a margarita cookie which had tequila and lime and some other stuff in it, and they were individually packaged in martini glasses.”

Another package had been decorated with a picture of Usher’s face and some sayings from her Web site (www.juliausher.com).

At the other end of the rolling pin, what happens if a novice baker brings in something that doesn’t taste very good, or – heaven forfend – some of those grocery store cookies? What’s the cookie swap etiquette for dealing with that?

First, don’t be a snob, Usher says. Remember, it’s the community atmosphere of a cookie swap that’s most important.

Still, there are some subtle ways around this issue. Suggest an easy recipe the novice can try, or a tried-and-true family recipe.

Another option is to turn the cookie swap into a baking event. Instead of asking guests to bring finished cookies, have them bring all the ingredients and bake the cookies together. The novice learns from more experienced bakers, and it reinforces the idea that time spent in the kitchen is ”good time,” not bad or wasted time.

”That can be fun too,” Usher said.

JULIA USHER’S EGGNOG CHEESECAKE STREUSEL BARS
Makes about 2 dozen (1 3/4-inch) squares

Spiked with the familiar flavors of eggnog and loaded with buttery cocoa streusel, this luscious cheesecake-cookie is guaranteed to draw big crowds. Note: Never substitute pre-ground nutmeg for freshly grated, as the former can be harsh and bitter. For a plain vanilla version for children, omit the grated nutmeg, bourbon and rum extract in the cheesecake and increase the vanilla extract to 2 teaspoons.

PREP TALK: For easiest cutting, chill at least 2 hours before slicing. Because the bars are perishable, they must be stored in the fridge. Bars will stay fresh longer if kept in the pan, tightly wrapped in foil, and cut just before serving. For best flavor and texture, serve at room temperature within 2 to 3 days before the streusel softens.

COCOA STREUSEL CRUST (AND TOPPING)
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar, divided
4 tablespoons unsweetened non-alkalized cocoa powder, divided
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and divided
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

EGGNOG CHEESECAKE FILLING
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 1/2 teaspoons bourbon
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup premium milk chocolate chips (for topping)
1 1/4 cups pecan halves, lightly toasted, cooled and coarsely chopped (for topping)

CARAMEL DRIZZLE (OPTIONAL)
4 ounces caramel candies (about 14 cubes)
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking pan with foil, leaving a 1-inch overhang around the top edge of the pan. Smooth out any big wrinkles in the foil; then lightly coat the foil with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Mix the Cocoa Streusel Crust. In a medium bowl, combine 1 1/4 cups plus 3 tablespoons flour, 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons brown sugar, 2 tablespoons cocoa powder, and the salt. Using a fork or your hands, thoroughly work in 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon butter until you have a moist dough. (There should be no dry spots.) Press the dough firmly into an even layer in the bottom of the pan. Prick generously with a fork.

3. Bake the crust about 15 minutes, or until set but still soft. (The top will look dull and ever so slightly puffed.) Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely before filling.

4. Make the Cocoa Streusel Topping. Combine the remaining 3/4 cup flour, 3/4 cup brown sugar, 2 tablespoons cocoa powder and nutmeg in a small bowl. Work in the remaining 6 tablespoons butter until the dry ingredients are uniformly moistened. (The mixture will be crumbly, but there should be no dry spots.) Set aside for use in Step 6.

5. Mix the Eggnog Cheesecake Filling. Place the cream cheese in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed until smooth and creamy, less than 1 minute. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat until the sugar has dissolved, about 1 minute. (You should feel no grit when you smear a bit of batter between your fingers.) Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. To keep the batter completely smooth, scrape down the sides of the bowl regularly. Turn the mixer to low speed and add the bourbon, nutmeg and extracts. Mix until well blended.

6. Pour the filling onto the cooled crust and spread into an even layer. Sprinkle the streusel topping evenly over the filling, followed by the chocolate chips and pecans. Gently press the toppings into the cheesecake.

7. Bake the cheesecake about 30 minutes, or until slightly puffed and firm through to the center. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

8. Prepare the Caramel Drizzle (optional). Unwrap the caramel candies and combine them with the cream and butter in a small nonreactive (stainless steel or coated) saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and stir regularly until the caramels are melted and the mixture is well blended. Drizzle 3 to 4 tablespoons over the top of the cheesecake.

9. Cover the pan and refrigerate at least 2 hours.

10. Remove the cheesecake from the pan in one block by gently pulling up on the foil overhang or by easing the block out with an offset spatula. Place directly on a cutting board and remove all foil. Trim any uneven edges before cutting the block into 13/4-inch squares. For the neatest cuts, use a sharp knife, wiped clean with a warm, damp cloth between slices. (If the chocolate chips are difficult to cut, heat the knife blade directly over a hot burner before cutting.)

JULIA USHER’S HOT BUTTERED RUM MELTAWAYS
Makes about 3 dozen (1 3/4-inch) cookies

Laced with rum, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves, these downy soft cookies evoke one of the season’s most famous libations. Note: Remember, never substitute pre-ground nutmeg for freshly grated, as the former can be harsh and bitter. For children, omit the rum and rum extract.

PREP TALK: Store in airtight containers at room temperature up to 1 week.
2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour
2 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg, plus extra for sprinkling
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly softened
1 1/4 cups sifted powdered sugar, divided; plus extra as needed for re-coating cookies
1 tablespoon dark rum
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 1/4 teaspoons rum extract

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two or more cookie sheets with parchment paper.

2. Stir the flour, spices and salt together in a medium bowl. Set aside for use in Step 4.

3. Place the butter and 3/4 cup powdered sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Stir to bring the ingredients together (and to keep the sugar from scattering in the next step.)

4. Beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Slowly add the rum and extracts, and blend well. Turn the mixer to low speed and gradually add the dry ingredients. Mix just until combined.

5. Roll the dough between your palms into 1-inch balls and place about 2 inches apart on the prepared cookie sheets. For the most uniform balls, first portion the dough into 1-inch mounds using a level 13/8-inch (#70) scoop or 2 level teaspoons per mound; then roll into perfect balls. (If the butter was too soft to start, the dough may be sticky and hard to handle. The cookies will also be more likely to flatten in the heat of the oven. Chill as needed until easily shaped.)

6. Bake 9 to 11 minutes, or until puffed, set and lightly browned on the bottom. Using an offset spatula, immediately transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool. (If you pick up the cookies while they are hot, you can misshape them.) While the cookies are still warm, sift the remaining powdered sugar evenly over the tops. Cool completely before storing.

7. Right before serving, sift more powdered sugar over the cookies (as needed to re-coat them) and then sprinkle with grated nutmeg to taste.

Copy the Story Link

Comments are not available on this story.